Backpacking in Sumatra is a dream come true for backpackers with a taste for the wild. As Indonesia’s second-largest island and one of the least commercialized, it offers authentic travel experiences that remain largely untouched by mass tourism.
Whether you’re looking for volcanic adventures, tribal cultures, surfing paradises, or endangered wildlife, Sumatra promises raw beauty and rugged charm.
Backpacking in Sumatra Overview
Backpacking in Sumatra isn’t for the faint-hearted. Roads are rough, infrastructure is basic, and communication can be tricky. But if you’re willing to trade comfort for adventure and authenticity, this island might just be the most memorable stop of your Southeast Asia journey.
Personally, I loved the 2 months I spent backpacking in Sumatra.
1. Why Backpack in Sumatra?
- Wildlife: One of the last places to see wild orangutans, elephants, tigers, and rhinos.
- Adventure: From surfing legendary waves to summiting volcanoes and jungle trekking.
- Culture: Home to distinct ethnic groups such as the Batak, Minangkabau, Karo, and Acehnese.
- Low Cost: Affordable accommodation, food, and transport.
- Fewer Tourists: Escape the crowds of Bali or Java and enjoy authentic local interactions.
Sumatra is for travelers who want real stories, real people, and real adventure.
2. Practical Planning Tips
Best Time to Visit:
The dry season is May–September, ideal for trekking and outdoor activities. November–March brings heavy rains, especially on the west coast.
Visa:
Many nationalities can enter Indonesia visa-free for 30 days. Extensions are available through immigration offices.
Currency:
Indonesian Rupiah (IDR). ATMs are available in cities, but carry cash in remote areas.
Language:
Bahasa Indonesia is the official language. English is spoken in tourist areas, but basic phrases help a lot.
Safety Tips:
- Be cautious on motorbikes.
- Use a water purifier or drink bottled water.
- Jungle guides should be ethical and licensed.
- Travel insurance is highly recommended, especially if doing adventurous things. I use SafetyWing, and they have been great for backpacker insurance, with reasonable prices. Check that link to get a quote.
3. Backpacking Essentials
- Daypack + Raincover
- Small umbrella, just in case, especially if going in the rainy season!
- Mosquito repellent & Malaria meds
- Quick-dry clothes & sarong (trust me, a sarong is awesome to have in Indonesia)
- Reusable water bottle with filter
- Headlamp, power bank, offline maps
- Waterproof bags for electronics
You don’t need fancy gear, but do pack for unpredictable weather, muddy trails, and long journeys.
4. Top Backpacking Destinations in Sumatra
Bukit Lawang – Orangutan Encounters
Located on the edge of Gunung Leuser National Park, this jungle town is the best place in Indonesia to see orangutans in the wild. Located in the lush jungles, it offers a gateway to encounter orangutans in their natural habitat. Renowned for its conservation efforts and pristine rainforests, Bukit Lawang provides a rare opportunity for visitors to observe these majestic creatures up close.
Guided treks through the dense foliage lead to sightings of orangutans swinging effortlessly among the towering trees, their playful antics and gentle nature captivating all who witness them. Beyond the wildlife, the village itself has a serene charm, with rustic accommodations and local hospitality adding to the atmosphere of this eco-tourism gem.
Things to Do:
- Jungle treks (1–5 days)
- Camp by waterfalls
- River tubing
- Visit local schools or conservation projects
Getting There:
5–6 hours from Medan by shared van or bus.
Pro Tip: Only use ethical guides. Feeding orangutans disrupts their behavior and risks human conflict.
Lake Toba – Chill by a Volcano Lake
This caldera lake, formed by one of Earth’s largest eruptions, is home to Samosir Island, a relaxing backpacker base. Formed by a supervolcanic eruption over 70,000 years ago, the lake’s vast, serene waters are surrounded by rolling hills and traditional Batak villages. You can chill out in cozy lakeside guesthouses, swim in crystal-clear waters, and explore the rich cultural heritage of the Batak people.
Whether it’s enjoying a slow-paced day by the water, taking a motorbike ride through scenic landscapes, or savoring local cuisine with a view, Lake Toba is perfect to unwind and soak in the natural and cultural beauty of this volcanic wonderland.
Things to Do:
- Rent scooters to explore the island
- Bathe in hot springs at Pangururan
- Visit Batak houses and tombs
- Enjoy reggae bars and cheap beer in Tuk Tuk
Stay: Budget guesthouses line the Tuk Tuk peninsula, many with lake access.
Berastagi – Volcanic Hikes & Hot Springs
Berastagi is in the Karo Highlands of North Sumatra, and is a great base for volcanic adventures, most notably the accessible yet geothermically active Mount Sibayak. A popular half-day trek (2–3 hrs) treats you to steaming sulfur vents, a crater lake, and sweeping views of Mount Sinabung on clear days.
After conquering the summit—often timed for sunrise—visit one of the nearby hot springs (Lau Debuk‑Debuk or Pesona Sibayak) to soak your muscles in mineral-rich pools (around 40–45 °C), with a refreshing panorama of lush hills and volcanic steam rising in the background. This blend of dramatic hikes and soothing natural baths is part of Berastagi’s volcanic charm.
Things to Do:
- Hike Mount Sibayak (easy, popular sunrise trek)
- Visit Mount Sinabung (active but closed to hikers)
- Explore fruit markets and try passionfruit
- Soak in hot springs after hiking
Tip: Bring a flashlight for the early-morning Sibayak hike.
Padang & Mentawai Islands – Surfing and Tribal Culture
Padang, the coastal capital of West Sumatra, is the gateway to the legendary Mentawai Islands—an off-the-beaten-path paradise famed for world-class surfing and deep-rooted tribal culture. While Padang offers spicy Minangkabau cuisine and a laid-back seaside vibe, the real adventure begins offshore, where the Mentawai chain delivers consistent, powerful waves that attract surfers from around the globe.
Beyond the surf, these remote islands are home to the indigenous Mentawai people, who still practice traditional lifestyles in the rainforest, including shamanic rituals, tattooing, and communal longhouse living. Visiting the Mentawai is not just a surf trip—it’s a journey into one of Indonesia’s most preserved and fascinating tribal cultures, where nature and spirituality remain deeply intertwined.
Mentawai Islands:
Famous for some of the best waves in the world.
Things to Do:
- Surf or watch pros tackle giant waves
- Visit remote Mentawai tribes (with a guide)
- Learn about traditional tattooing and shamanism
Budget Tip: The Ferry to Siberut Island is cheaper than speedboats.
Bukittinggi – Culture Meets Nature
Bukittinggi, perched in the cool highlands of West Sumatra, is a vibrant town where Minangkabau culture beautifully blends with dramatic natural landscapes. Surrounded by volcanic peaks like Mount Merapi and Mount Singgalang, the town boasts scenic viewpoints, such as the iconic Sianok Canyon, and historic landmarks like the Japanese WWII tunnel and the Jam Gadang clock tower.
As a cultural hub, Bukittinggi offers insights into the matrilineal traditions of the Minangkabau people, seen in traditional Rumah Gadang houses and lively markets filled with local crafts and cuisine.
Things to Do:
- Explore Japanese WWII tunnels
- Climb Janjang Koto Gadang (a mini Great Wall)
- Try rendang and spicy Padang food
- Visit the clock tower and the markets
Nearby: Mount Marapi hike, trip to Harau Valley, or chill at Lake Maninjau for the day.
Harau Valley – Sumatra’s Hidden Yosemite
Harau Valley, often dubbed “Sumatra’s Hidden Yosemite,” is a breathtaking gorge tucked away in West Sumatra, surrounded by towering granite cliffs, lush rice paddies, and cascading waterfalls. This serene valley offers a stunning contrast between dramatic vertical rock faces and the tranquil, green countryside below, making it a haven for rock climbers, hikers, and nature lovers alike.
Waterfalls like Sarasah Bunta and Akar Berayun flow year-round, adding to the valley’s fairytale atmosphere. Traditional Minangkabau villages dot the landscape, offering warm hospitality and a glimpse into local life. Far less crowded than other tourist spots, Harau Valley remains one of Indonesia’s best-kept secrets.
Things to Do:
- Rock climbing or hiking to viewpoints
- Cycling through rice fields
- Waterfall swims
Stay: Budget homestays inside the valley with views of dramatic cliffs.
Kerinci Seblat National Park – Wildest Trekking in Sumatra
Kerinci Seblat National Park, the largest national park on Sumatra, offers the island’s wildest and most challenging trekking experiences. Dominated by Mount Kerinci, Indonesia’s highest volcano outside Papua, the park is a rugged haven of dense rainforest, misty peaks, and incredible biodiversity. Trekkers can venture deep into tiger territory, where sightings of rare species like the Sumatran tiger, tapir, and hornbill are possible, though elusive.
Multi-day treks lead through untouched jungle trails, cloud forests, and sulfur-crusted volcanic slopes, rewarding adventurers with dramatic views and a true sense of remoteness. Home to indigenous communities and ancient ecosystems, Kerinci Seblat is not just a destination but an expedition into one of Southeast Asia’s last great wildernesses.
Top Experience:
Trekking Mount Kerinci (3,805m), the tallest volcano in Indonesia.
Other Activities:
- Birdwatching (home to hornbills, eagles)
- Jungle expeditions with chance sightings of tapirs and gibbons
- Tea plantation visits in Kayu Aro
Access: From Padang, travel to Sungai Penuh or Kersik Tuo (long journey, worth it).
Palembang – Offbeat Urban Culture
Palembang, the capital of South Sumatra, offers a unique blend of offbeat urban culture and deep historical roots along the banks of the Musi River. As one of Indonesia’s oldest cities, it carries the legacy of the ancient Srivijaya Empire, visible in relics, temples, and traditional wooden stilt houses that line the waterways.
Today, Palembang pulses with a mix of old and new—colorful street art, riverfront cafés, and bustling night markets contrast with colonial-era architecture and local mosques. Culinary delights like pempek (savory fish cakes) showcase the city’s rich food heritage. Often overlooked by tourists, Palembang rewards the curious traveler with authentic charm, riverine life, and a distinctly Sumatran urban experience far from the typical tourist trail.
Things to Do:
- Visit the Musi River and Ampera Bridge
- Try pempek (savory fishcake)
- Discover the history of Srivijaya, a powerful maritime kingdom
- Ride a klotok boat along the river
Best For: Urban explorers and food lovers.
Banda Aceh & Pulau Weh – History and Diving
Banda Aceh and nearby Pulau Weh offer a compelling mix of rich history and world-class diving at the northern tip of Sumatra. Banda Aceh, the provincial capital of Aceh, is a city of resilience, deeply shaped by the 2004 tsunami and known for its strong Islamic heritage, historic mosques like Baiturrahman, and thought-provoking museums.
Just a short ferry ride away, Pulau Weh (also called Sabang) welcomes visitors with turquoise waters, vibrant coral reefs, and a laid-back island atmosphere. Dive sites like Rubiah Sea Garden and Sophie Rickmers wreck attract divers with their incredible marine biodiversity and clear visibility. Together, Banda Aceh and Pulau Weh offer a unique dual experience, where meaningful cultural exploration meets unforgettable underwater adventures.
What to Do in Banda Aceh:
- Visit the Tsunami Museum
- Explore grand mosques and local markets
- Learn about Acehnese resistance and Sharia law
Pulau Weh (Sabang):
A diver’s paradise just off the coast.
Activities:
- Snorkeling and scuba diving in Gapang and Iboih
- Motorbiking around the island
- Relaxing on quiet beaches with locals
Travel Note: Conservative region; dress respectfully.
Nias Island – Surf and Stone Jumping
Nias Island, located off the western coast of Sumatra, is a fascinating destination where thrilling surf and ancient traditions collide. Renowned among surfers for its powerful, perfectly peeling waves—especially at Lagundri Bay—Nias has earned a place on the global surf map. But beyond the swells, the island holds deep cultural intrigue with its megalithic villages and the legendary stone jumping ritual, where young men leap over two-meter-high stone towers to prove their strength and readiness for adulthood.
Traditional Nias architecture, with massive wooden houses and intricately carved details, reflects a warrior heritage that still echoes through the island’s festivals and performances. Nias offers both adrenaline and authenticity, making it a rare blend of world-class surf culture and living history.
Things to Do:
- Surf at Sorake and Lagundri Bay
- Watch stone-jumping (lompat batu) in traditional villages
- Explore megalithic architecture and tribal rituals
Access: Ferry or flight from Medan to Gunungsitoli.
Jambi & Muaro Jambi Temple Complex
Jambi, a quiet riverside city in central Sumatra, holds the key to one of Indonesia’s most significant yet underappreciated archaeological treasures—the Muaro Jambi Temple Complex. Sprawling across more than 12 square kilometers along the Batang Hari River, this ancient Buddhist site dates back to the 7th–13th centuries and is believed to have been a major center of learning during the powerful Srivijaya and Melayu Kingdoms.
The complex features red-brick stupas, meditation chambers, canals, and ceremonial grounds, many still partially hidden by jungle, giving visitors a sense of discovery and timelessness. Unlike more visited temple sites in Java or Bali, Muaro Jambi remains tranquil and largely untouched, offering a rare chance to explore Indonesia’s spiritual and scholarly past in peaceful solitude.
What to See:
- Muaro Jambi temples, an ancient Buddhist complex by the river
- Batanghari River cruises
- Traditional Malay villages nearby
Tip: Great for history buffs and spiritual seekers.
5. Culture and Cuisine
Sumatra’s rich cultural mosaic adds depth to any backpacking journey.
Main Ethnic Groups:
- Batak: The Batak are generally Christian, musical, and spirited (Lake Toba area)
- Minangkabau: Matrilineal, Islamic, spicy food (West Sumatra)
- Acehnese: Conservative, Sharia law (North)
- Karo: Highland farmers with unique funeral rituals
Sumatran Cuisine:
I love the food of Sumatra!
Sumatran cuisine is a bold and richly spiced culinary tradition that reflects the island’s diverse cultures, especially the fiery flavors of Minangkabau (Padang) food. Known for its generous use of chili, coconut milk, turmeric, and aromatic herbs, dishes like rendang—a slow-cooked beef stew—have gained global fame for their deep, complex taste.
Other regional favorites include gulai (spiced curry), sate Padang (savory skewers with thick sauce), and nasi kapau (a rice dish with various flavorful toppings). In coastal areas, fresh seafood takes center stage, while inland dishes often feature buffalo meat and forest vegetables.
- Rendang: Slow-cooked beef in coconut and spice
- Pempek: Savory fishcake (Palembang)
- Gulai: Coconut milk curry with fish or vegetables
- Nasi Padang: Rice with a buffet of dishes (eat with your hand!)
- Durians: Locally beloved, powerfully aromatic fruit
Food is cheap, delicious, and very spicy—ask for “tidak pedas” if you can’t handle heat!
6. Sample 3-Week Backpacking Itinerary
Week 1: North Sumatra
- Day 1: Arrive Medan
- Day 2–4: Bukit Lawang jungle trek
- Day 5–6: Travel to Berastagi, hike Mount Sibayak
- Day 7–9: Relax on Lake Toba
Week 2: West Sumatra
- Day 10: Travel to Padang
- Day 11–13: Bukittinggi + Harau Valley
- Day 14–15: Mount Marapi hike or local culture tours
Week 3: Aceh or Kerinci Adventure
- Day 16–18: Banda Aceh + Pulau Weh (diving and snorkeling)
- OR
- Day 16–20: Kerinci Mount trek + tea plantations
Flexible Add-ons:
- Nias Island for surf culture
- Palembang for city exploration
- Mentawai for longboard waves
Sumatra
Backpacking in Sumatra is one of the last great adventures of Southeast Asia. It’s not always easy—roads are long, English is limited, and luxury is rare—but the rewards are immense.
You’ll meet orangutans in the jungle, swim in volcanic lakes, hike active volcanoes, and share meals with people whose traditions are centuries old. Whether you’re diving off Pulau Weh or climbing into the clouds at Mount Kerinci, you’re guaranteed stories that last a lifetime.
For a more detailed guide for Indonesia, including Sumatra, the Lonely Planet Indonesia guidebook is the best option.
Another book I can recommend about Indonesia to get some great insights into the country is: Indonesia, Etc.: Exploring the Improbable Nation.
For more on travel in Indonesia, have a look at my guide to backpacking in Sulawesi.
Again, travel insurance is highly recommended. I use SafetyWing, which is perfect for backpackers. Check that link to get a quote for your adventure.
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