Backpacking in Mongolia (The Gobi Desert Tour)

backpacking in mongolia

If you’re going backpacking in Mongolia the Gobi Desert is one of the highlights of any trip there.

I know the word ‘beautiful’ can get thrown around quite a bit but in this case, it’s very true.

This is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been.

When thinking of a desert you could imagine huge sand-dunes (of which the Gobi Desert has plenty,) but there is so much more than that.

Before you reach those famous sand-dunes travelling from the capital Ulaanbaatar (depending on your route) you pass through rocky terrain with mountains and deep canyons, with scattered camps full of friendly nomads, and an endless horizon.

Those nomad camps are where you will sleep for the night, staying inside traditional ger tents next to the nomadic families. It’s cosy and warm inside these tents from the cold air outside.

As far as camping in Mongolia goes, forget it for the Gobi Desert, just go and stay with the nomads, it’s much more fun.

The families are generally very welcoming with their nomad hospitality and like so many places it’s the people that make the journey.

Backpacking in Mongolia will be one of the best adventures you can have!

Before going into the Gobi Desert base yourself in Ulaanbaatar to organise things.


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The Journey Into The Gobi Desert of Mongolia

 

The Gobi Gurvansaikhan National Park

At the start of the journey from Ulaanbaatar to the Gobi Gurvansaikhan National Park are many rocky outcrops that you can see in these next four photos, with an unusual dark sky.

Why unusual?

Because Mongolia is known for it’s almost constant blue sky and sunshine.

Hidden amongst these rocky escarpments are nomad camps where they look after mostly goats.

You can also find secret Buddhist ruins with some destroyed from the time of the communist purges of religion, long ago.

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Signs of Buddhism on top of these rocks.

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If you didn’t know where to look these Buddhist ruins would remain a mystery and far out of sight.

It’s very rare to see trees in the Gobi Desert.

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The Mongolian nomads have embraced technology as it obviously makes their lives easier.

Getting around by motorcycle is more common than using the traditional means of horses or camels, although that still goes on.

See the solar charger at this nomad camp in the photo below.

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Bactrian camels are the most common camel in Mongolia, and one of the most seen Gobi Desert animals.

This girl was helping the camels settle for the night as the sun was going down in the Gobi Desert.

BACKPACKING IN MONGOLIA
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There are two types of camels in the world – the Bactrian camel (seen in the photo below) which has two humps, whereas the dromedary camel has only one.

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Leaving the rocky outcrops you enter into a world of deep canyons, all part of the journey to get deep into the Gobi Desert.

It almost feels like you are entering through a secret gateway into another world.

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In this canyon there is ice year round as the sun does not reach it long enough to melt it, and the cold night temperatures (even in summer) keep it frozen.

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When staying with these nomads in their tent they showed the utmost hospitality, that’s common there.

The entire time in the Gobi Desert was spent sleeping with different nomad families and is much better than using your own tent.

You will get the real Mongolian experience.

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One of my favourite travel quotes:

“Take only memories, leave only footsteps.” – Chief Seattle.

 

Footsteps in The Sand at Khongoryn Els

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You then reach what many people think of when you say ‘Gobi Desert’, as huge sand-dunes rose in the distance.

A big smile came to my face as we got closer and closer at the thought of climbing them.

This is what I had dreamed of as a younger traveller first researching this area over a decade ago, and had finally made it.

The views are stunning.

It’s hard to describe the sheer tranquility and absolute silence of the Khongoryn Els (singing sands) sand-dunes in the Gobi Desert, with just the whisper of the desert wind as company for your ears.

See the two people on the sand-dune in the photo below?  That should give you an idea of the scale of these dunes.

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There is even more to see past these famous dunes, as you enter into one of the remotest parts of Mongolia.

Want to escape the world? The Gobi Desert is where to go.

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This van is the most common mode of transport and is well suited to traversing the tough terrain.

It’s not that fast but it becomes your moving home, and soon takes on a comfortable familiarity in the midst of all the nothingness around you.

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Reaching into the farthest reaches of the Gobi Desert the sun sets on the nomadic camp for the night.

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Some of the food the nomads share with you will not be to everyones taste, although intestines are surprisingly not that bad, and the meat dumplings are tasty.

One thing almost everyone can get behind however is a good drink, and they are known for their home brewed alcohol, like the woman in this photo is making.

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During the evening I helped the family round up the camels.

There had been a strong sand-storm that day, obscuring everything around, but the camels didn’t seem to care.

You can see them relaxing as the horizon vanishes in the storm.

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It was great timing when these two Bactrian camels came roaming past at sunset, almost like they were saying:

“Hold up mate we will make your photo look more exotic!”  

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When the sky clears of cloud and dust, and the sun has completely gone, you can see so many stars.

I didn’t want to leave the Gobi Desert, but it was time.

Headed away from the remotest area the driver took us onwards on the journey, past more beautiful scenery.

Adding something different to the surroundings was the occasional Buddhist stupa, with bright coloured flags contrasted against the stark terrain.

Buddhism is the main religion of Mongolia.

 

Buddhist Sites in Mongolia on the Journey

Buddhism in Mongolia came about in the 13th century and was based on Tibetan Buddhism, but with its own style, so to speak.

It’s one of the great things about travel in Mongolia, seeing some old Buddhist relics from long ago. 

Buddhism made a resurgence in Mongolia during the 16th century, yet effectively died in the early to mid 20th century under pressure from Soviet communist influence.

These days since the death of communism around half of Mongolians identify themselves as Buddhist.

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The End of The Tour

The land starts to become more fertile the further away you get from the sand-dunes.

This is good grazing ground for cattle.

Again you can see how remote these nomad camps are.

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Then it all came to an end as the Gobi Desert was replaced by the concrete jungle of the capital Ulaanbaatar.

I should mention this trip is not for those who like to always be clean.

There are no showers to use for a week and you have to live with all the dirt and sand on your body. It feels like sand is in every part of your body (and most likely is.)

There are also no toilets and squatting in nature or the occasional hole in the ground is what you would have to do.

Between certain parts of the Gobi Desert there are some very small provincial towns that have bath-houses where nomads come in to bathe.

However they tend to be broken a lot (from my experience), so don’t get your hopes up on them for getting clean.

Having gone without a shower, internet access, and other things that we take for granted, upon arriving back in UlaanBaatar felt a little strange, with all the people and technology around.

But it always feels like that when you have been somewhere remote for a while.

Going into the Gobi Desert is one of the best things I have done and fulfilled a big dream on my to-do list of travel destinations.

Backpacking in Mongolia is the best!


How to Visit The Gobi Desert in Mongolia

As you can see from this post the Gobi Desert is very remote which can cause problems for a visit, especially if you’re  short on time.

The following information is for those interested in the best way to go on a budget tour.

Many people stop in Mongolia for just a week en-route between Russia and China on the Trans-Mongolian train and generally don’t have time to wait around.

In that case your best option is to book a cheap tour through any of the budget guesthouses in UlaanBaatar, they are all very similar.

I stayed at the Golden Gobi Guesthouse (find it and book it through that link) and booked the tour through them. You can find plenty of Mongolian tour companies in Ulaanbaatar though, so shop around.

You will get a four wheel drive van like the one seen in this article. Make sure to check on the condition of the van before going.

The more people you put in the van, the cheaper the price, but also you will have less comfort.

I had two other travellers with me and was comfortable as each of us was able to sit facing forward and stretch our legs.

You can get up to six people in, or seven at a tight squeeze.

With the tour you will get an experienced driver and guide who will look after you.

Make sure your guide is reputable and good as that will make all the difference when it comes to talking with the nomads and being social.

The scenery in the Gobi Desert is absolutely stunning but the best part was meeting with the local nomads. If you have a bad guide who is lazy to chat and translate, then you will have a big language barrier talking to them.

Talk to other travellers in your guesthouse who have come back from a tour to see how it was with that particular company.

If there is not enough people to join for a tour in your guesthouse then your best bet is to go around the other guesthouses and ask. Hell do that anyway to see what best price you can get.

Don’t forget to bargain as no price is set.

For those with more time on their hands the best thing you could do is wait around for a few days until you get enough travellers together and rent a private car.

This way there is no set schedule and you can take your time and stop where you want.

You could take your own tents for camping but you can generally show up to a nomads camp and ask if you can sleep the night there, for payment of course.

You will get to sleep in the main ger tent most of the time, sleeping on the floor on a thin mattress. Some ger camps will have proper beds you can use.

Your other option is to try and hitch-hike through the Gobi Desert and stay at nomad camps, but you will need a lot of time and luck due to the remoteness.

We went an entire day and only saw two other vehicles. But then again we were there in low season.

I personally try to avoid tours as much as possible preferring the freedom to do things by myself, as is the backpacking lifestyle, and backpacking in Mongolia I was hoping to do the same.

The problem was that I arrived towards the end of October. Winter in Mongolia was coming and things were getting cold, which also meant less travellers. I decided to go out on a tour just because it made sense at that particular time.

If I went in high season (June to September) I would have tried hitch-hiking as the weather would be warmer and I would have a lot more time to spare.

I’m talking cheap tours here as generally this site is for the budget traveller, such as myself.

If you do want to book a more upmarket tour do not take this advice!


Mongolia is the perfect backpackers destination.

It’s got friendly nomads in some of the most beautiful scenery in the world, and on top of that is dirt cheap to travel around making it great for the budget traveller.

The Gobi Desert is a highlight of any travel to Mongolia.


Useful Links for Backpacking in Mongolia

If you want to know what I pack for my travels like I did to the Gobi Desert then read my post where I recommend what to pack for traveling light.

A good guide for backpacking in Mongolia is the Lonely Planet Mongolia.

And take travel insurance for any kind of adventure travel just to be safel. I use WorldNomads.

Get a travel insurance quote:

 

If you liked this article about backpacking in Mongolia a share would be appreciated! –

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30 thoughts on “Backpacking in Mongolia (The Gobi Desert Tour)”

  1. Jonny I fricken love this. The pictures here are stunning and you have done a bloody good job of showing it from a short stay perspective. Good stuff dude!

  2. Thanks Vaughan!

    I was trying to show how beautiful the place is but also how to do it, so glad that came across well enough.

    Safe travels 🙂

  3. Hi Jonny. I read your wrinting about Mongolian gobi and its very good writed. Also photos are excellent. Good luck

  4. Mongolia and the Gobi Desert is definitely one of the big adventures I want to do before I get too old to do physically taxing stuff that is required on such a trip. Excellent photos (that dune is STEEP)!

  5. Yes always good to do things while you can, that’s one of my mottos. Thanks! I was knackered after climbing the dune 😛

  6. Your pictures are absolutely stunning! I love especially the pictures of the girl and the camel with dusk light shining on her face – beautiful. And of course, the one with the camel staring back at ya! 🙂

  7. It is always lovely to know about places that are not always on the travel radar of people. The land of Genghis Khan is truly a marvel. These are amazing clicks and I literally felt that I was actually there. If have heard that there are certain areas that have been declared off limits to tourists due to the discovery of the remains of the woolly mammoth. Have you been there? Again thanks for this amazing post.

  8. Exceptional post.
    We are going to Mongolia on the 16th May for a month. I would love to mirror this tour you did in the Gobi. Is this a standard route most of the tours/private drivers would take?

    Cheers
    Andre

  9. Absolutely loved your article, thanks for sharing your experience in such a great way ! I’m going there next month and looking at your pictures, I cannot wait 🙂
    Cheers
    Elo

  10. Happy you liked the article. I really like showing places through pictures more than words sometimes. Mongolia is one such place. It’s so beautiful in the countryside you’ll love it 🙂

  11. I was debating so intensely going to the Gobi dessert since I’m heading to Mongolia in the winter, but sir, you sold it. What guest house did you stay at while you were in the city, or better question – what tour company/guide did you go through? I only have a week in the country and hoping to spend most of it outside of the city on a tour similar to yours.

    Thanks so much!
    G

  12. Hii may i know how much did it cost per day basis and is there any chance for bargaining while booking tours?
    Thanks in advance 🙂

  13. Hi Jonny,

    Great pictures you have there.

    Did you travel to other parts of Mongolia other than Gobi desert? I understand you went with a tour to Gobi, any idea whether self driving is feasible outside UB?

    Cheers,
    Jessica

  14. G’day! Loved your article. My partner and I are two females who are currently living the van life in the states and are seasoned travellers and were wondering if you saw many female travellers along your way?
    Thanks so much ??

  15. Thanks Jonny for the great info I’m traveling there on my own in may it’s given me a great insight into Gobi

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